News from the Needles

2012-02-03T13:27:00.001-07:00

Sad news from the Needles, I received the following email from a regular Needles climber;

Sorry to report this,

Herb Conn has died. Old age and cancer took him Wed. the first of Feb. If you knew the Conns you know what private people they were. Independent to the end, Herb passed at home in the Conn cave with Jan nearby. He was ready to go. Jan seems to be doing awesome. I expect there will be no services as mentioned in the RC Journal. I'll try to put more up on the Sylvan Rocks Blog soon. Give Herb a big smile next time you look up at the rocks or down into a cave.

I talked with the folks at the funeral home and there will be no service at Jans request. There is an obituary and a place to post a message on their website; http://www.mccolleyschapels.com/

State of the Art RV

2012-01-26T07:37:00.003-07:00

Here is another RV I might have mistaken for Biddick's but it too has more tire tread than his.

Remembering Paul

2012-01-23T07:59:00.000-07:00

Thinking about the coming summer climbing season got me thinking about Paul. This shot is Paul leading the Bell Tower a few weeks before his fall and untimely death. Paul pulled off a hold minutes after this shot and fell onto the single piece of gear visible below and to his right. He continued of course and finished the route.

Grand Conspiracy?

2012-01-15T06:49:00.001-07:00

Following is the transcript of a video posted on Utube...

What is Globalization?

In the 20th century the human race was confronted with such a natural phenomenon as globalization. Globalization can be defined as the process of concentration of power over all the mankind in one person or a small group. This process has been under way throughout the whole human history and is now near completion. Centuries ago Ancient Egyptian priests became aware that globalization can be controlled. They have worked out the overall principles and patterns of controlling society to achieve their own goals, and headed up this process. Let us take a look at how globalization process is being controlled now.

Principle 6. Weapon of War.

"War is the continuation of politics by other means" -- Karl von Clausewitz

The oldest and fastest way of controlling people has always been the war. The object of any war is the conquest of territories, wealth, human resources or complete elimination of enemy. World history has witnessed a great number of brutal wars.

Principle 5. Weapon of Genocide.

"All the crimes on Earth do not destroy so many of the human race, nor alienate so much property, as drunkenness" -- Sir Francis Bacon

The next step in the process of globalization was the transition from "hot wars" waged by ordinary weapons to "cold wars" waged through the so called "cultural co-operation". It's possible to completely eliminate or subdue a whole nation to one's own will by means of such genocide weapons as drugs, alcohol, tobacco, several types of vaccines and genetically modified foods. Yet to keep people unaware of the destructive nature of these weapons they have been disguised as superficially harmless means of relaxation, stress relief, amusement and acquiring immunity to disease. This idea is being inculcated in the minds through culture, mass media, and specially planted proverbs and tokens. In reality these substances are dangerous poisons undermining the genetics of the human species, destroying the human being both morally and physically, wiping out the existing and future generations.

Principle 4. Economical.

"Give me control of a nation's money and I care not who makes the laws" -- Mayer Amschel Rothschild"

Globalizers see no point in destroying nations completely. They are better off leaving a part of the slaves' population alive having subdued its economics to their narrow clannish interests, but also in such the manner that a nation hasn't the slightest idea of what is really going on. This can be done through universal money and the institution of credit, by means of usurious interest rates that allow the bankers' clans to receive skyrocketing profits from credit interest without creating any values for the society, while other people, their families, entire nations have to spend their lives paying off debt and essentially become slaves.

Principle 3. Factual.

"There are no facts, only interpretations"-- Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

A whole nation or separate social classes can be ruled much more efficiently after being brainwashed with various ideologies, religious dogmas, sociological doctrines and mass media. Some are subconsciously inculcated with e.g. the theory of Karl Marx, the second with "Allah Akbar", the third with "Christ is Risen", the fourth with "Live Fast, Die Young". And if need be at some point in time people start being collided by activation of inherent contradictions using some special techniques such as provocations, assassinations, scandalous news articles, caricatures or deliberate mistakes, which seem to be accidental from outside. For example, we are now witnessing the attempts to set the traditional Islam and Biblical Christianity against each other, despite the belief shared by quite a number of world religions that God, the Creator, the Almighty is One for all creatures of the Earth.

Principle 2. Chronological.

"Look behind in the past more often to avoid big mistakes in the future"-- Kozma Prutkov

It is common knowledge that one who has forgotten the history of his Motherland is like a tree with no roots. But what would happen if a whole nation forgot its history or accepted some historical myth imposed on it by external hostile elements. To quote George Orwell, "Who controls the past controls the future. Who controls the present controls the past". Rewriting of a nations history inevitably leads to alteration of its future..

Principle 1. Ideological (worldview).

"If you want to defeat your enemy bring up his children"-- oriental wisdom

Conquest of a nation will become most steady, effective and almost irreversible if one manages to somehow alter its worldview nationwide, so that the nation willfully serves the interests of the invaders, considering them a part of their normal life.

"This world a hollow pageant you should deem;

All wise men know things are not what they seem;

Be of good cheer, and drink, and so shake off

This vain illusion of a baseless dream"

Omar Khayyam

Stansberry Research

2011-12-20T18:45:00.001-07:00

I've been invited by Porter Stansberry to pass this article round, to get the word out, so here it is

Link

Most of you know most of this stuff already but you might learn something new.

The Rules

2011-11-23T07:53:00.001-07:00

Rules... I hate having rules attached to the blog but with spammer's and porn purveyor's lurking out there looking for places to post their trash I have this one rule; I screen the comments.

Anyone can read the blog and anyone can post comments to the blog. Comments come to me for approval or discard, they can be off topic, they can be controversial, they can be political, they can be politically incorrect, I only discard the trash and yes, I determine what is trash.

So feel free to comment on any post even is it is off topic, your off topic comment might become a new post.

Happy Turkey Day

Climbing

2011-11-22T12:33:00.001-07:00

No, there's no climbing around Quartzsite that I know of so, that couldn't possibly be John Sherman's rig pulling in at the laundry as I look out the window of my home on wheels. But, I walk over to see if it is and I ask if he is John Stewart (they say memory is the first to go... or is it hearing? Hhmmn, can't remember) so he looks at me like I'm crazy and say's no, John Sherman.

He and his girl friend are headed east to do some climbing (of course) and I'm headed west just to be away from winter. They were only here about twenty minutes. I'm gone too.

Traveling

2011-11-20T09:01:00.001-07:00

The blog may be a little quieter than usual... I'm off to California looking for new places to discover. Will be in touch again... sometime?

Pray

2011-11-17T10:16:00.001-07:00

Pray for Obama... Psalm 109:8

2011-11-17T07:25:00.001-07:00

Old geezer hard at work on the computer

Home sweet home

2011-11-15T10:46:00.001-07:00

Home Sweet Home

Actually, I'm homeless, I live in my vehicle.

Sunny Arizona

2011-11-13T13:58:00.001-07:00

Nice little car show at the Blue Water Casino in Parker, AZ yesterday... some very nice cars, here are two of the best.

News from Arizona

2011-11-11T11:56:00.001-07:00

Wow... big disappointment today, I thought I saw Biddick parking his motorhome but it turned out to be someone else.

Nice rig though.

News from the Needles

2011-11-08T13:27:00.002-07:00

This is supposed to be a climbing/climbers blog but I find myself in Quartzsite, AZ where I just can't seem to find anything to climb. However, I'm only about 100 miles from Joshua Tree so will maybe go over there for a long weekend sometime in the next few weeks depending on the weather.
Don't know if there might be climber's around there during November/December... anyone have some suggestions?

Meanwhile all of you are welcome to post climbing related comments or photo's here anytime.

Would like to have climbed here last month but there were too many government tyrants around. I offered to buy the place but it wasn't for sale.

News from Quartzsite

2011-10-28T12:57:00.002-06:00

Spending some time in Quartzsite now, weather is high 80's during the day, mid to high 50's at night, I'm lovin' it.

Riding every day

Sunny Arizona

2011-10-15T09:37:00.000-06:00

Greetings from sunny Arizona and Cochise Stronghold. Cold nights, warm days.

Picked up a "Mule" to go with my covered wagon.

News from the Stronghold

2011-10-03T11:55:00.003-06:00

For those of you who follow the blog... I'm in Cochise Stronghold at the moment, great weather, almost no one around, peaceful, quiet, lovin' it.

email me if you're coming down - solomcq@gmail.com

End of Season

2011-09-14T06:38:00.001-06:00

After Labor Day... weather gets colder, very few climbers around, no news to pass on sooo... enjoy this poster.

Labor Day News

2011-09-08T06:41:00.001-06:00

Labor Day weekend was one of the busiest, most crowded I have ever seen... too many people.

I got my "covered wagon" up there early so I could get it parked, was there saturday and sunday, did not go back on monday because of the crowds.

A few climbers around, none of what I would call the 'regulars'.

Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn were there on sunday, climbing taking photo's... maybe working on a new guide?

Grandpa's covered wagon

News from the Needles

2011-06-24T09:26:00.000-06:00

Paul Armand Duval

February 18, 1937 June 24, 2008

Remembering Paul this third anniversary of his untimely death. Paul was killed as the result of a fall while rapping off the anchors of a route called "Pointless" at Moonlight Ridge. He apparently mistook black marks twenty feet from the end of the rope for center marks... let's everyone be careful out there.

News from the Needles

2011-06-15T07:43:00.000-06:00

People showed up on monday, the Wilger's, Biddick, Kevin Dorsman (sp?) and the Karpel's are here. Been climbing monday and tuesday, heading up to the park again now. Climbed Bloody Spire twice already, also Gnomon, Goldline, Has anyone seen Elmer, Moonlight Rib, Hitching Post and The Thimble.

News from the Needles

2011-06-13T11:05:00.000-06:00

Finally seems to be summer, first climb yesterday, Hitching Post, no one around that I knew. Come on people, get out here.

The Three C's

2010-09-30T08:43:00.001-06:00

Three climbing "Musketeer's" Chris Pelczarski (Tatter Tot), Chris Hirsch and Chris Parrish pull off an assault on some little climbed classic's at the Needles Eye parking lot.

Tatter Tot leads through the squeeze on the 5.4 route (Piana, Touch the Sky) of Moraine Spire

Crosses over to the east face at the top of the squeeze

And chats with Chris Hirsch at the summit. All three C's spent some time at the top before moving on to the Thimble and Homeward Spire.

Tatter Tot free solo's the 5.8/9 route left of the classic John Gill route on the Thimble while

Chris Hirsch free solo's the bottom half of pitch #1 on Bloody Spire to get to the top of Homeward Spire

Tatter Tot on Homeward Spire. There are enough stances to bolt this route from the ground up, maybe we should give it some thought

Homeward Spire and Moraine Spire are rarely climbed, it was nice to see them get some attention. The tourist's who were there loved watching, took many pictures and enjoyed talking with the climber's. For most tourist's, seeing climber's is the highlight of their trip.

End of Season

2010-09-30T08:07:00.001-06:00

This is the end of the season for Rushmore Helicopter Tours where McQ worked part time as a member of the ground crew. It was a good season, hard work, lots of fun.

The Rushmore Helipad with pilot Shane Espinoza on the fuel pad with Robinson R44 ID 44 Juliette

On the pad, the "Harley Heli" ID 0 Mikey Yankee (for you Cara) that was a big hit with bikers this year

The company Crazy Horse location Highway 16/385 north of Custer is still operating for a while this season, still time to catch a ride over Custer State Park.

2010-08-27T15:27:00.001-06:00

The Fist as seen from the Needle's Eye parking lot looking west.

Here comes Trouble goes up the center of the face above

Imagine my surprise when I went to retrieve two quick draws today that Josh and I left on Here Comes Trouble, 5.10, and they were gone. OK, so it's been several weeks since we left them, I just didn't get around to it until today.

Anyway, they were two of a set of eight that I had picked up at a store called Sportler in Innsbruck, Austria while on a trip with a girlfriend (but that's another story). As I recall, they cost $8.00 each when similar draws here in the States were about $12.00. I will miss them.

I sort of dragged Josh over to the Fist on his last day here this summer to belay while I added a quick link to a chain at the second bolt (I had taken a bad fall trying to do it alone last summer and wanted help this time). As I recall I broke off four holds while leading through the first four or five bolts, each broken hold resulted in a fall but didn't hurt me enough to quit, however, it did wear me out so I backed off and asked Josh if he wanted to finish.

Josh led through the next two bolts then pulled off a softball sized hold with his right hand, he just barely held on to avoid a fall and held on to the hold rather than drop it on my head. He decided to back off rather than risk a fall on to less than vertical rock below (he was still nursing a serious injury and didn't want to re-injure it. I'm surprised he can climb as hard as he does).

Climbers lower off single bolts quite often but this time Josh wanted to leave the one below as a backup (a good decision, why trust your life to a single bolt? And besides, they were not his draws). Josh is a competent climber and climbing partner, I would trust his judgment on any climb.

So, if you have my draws and you led the route to get them, no problem... but, if you pussy'd up the back side and got them on rappel, you don't deserve them, contact me to return them.

solomcq@gmail.com

News from the Needle's

2010-08-25T07:31:00.000-06:00

Most of our summer climber's are gone for the season and a nice summer it was... lasted the whole month of July.

Now is the time to add a few new routes.

News from the Needles

2010-07-29T07:17:00.004-06:00

Here is a shot of the Needle's Eye from top of Hitching Post (bottom of the photo starts about 30 feet above the parking lot). The horn in the lower left is the first opportunity for gear placement when starting from below the guard rail, about 50 foot run out. The direct start from the parking lot (30 feet not shown), has small nut placements and one modern bolt but is 5.10b/c. The arete on the left from the horn to the horizontal crack is easy (5.4) but affords no good protection opportunities, you will be exposed to ground fall as you near the crack.

The horizontal crack has two fixed piton's that have been there 30 or 40 years, the 5.8 crux is above the crack. Above the crack is exposure to a 40 foot fall onto the old pitons, get one good nut in the crack before the first piton.

The Needle's Eye is climbed many times each summer... some local climber's and the first acsentionist insist that the route remain as is (continue to rely on the fixed piton's).

Chains at the top, rap the route with 60 meter rope.

Climb it, have fun, don't trust the piton's.

News from the Needles

2010-07-12T06:34:00.000-06:00

Found this unusual formation on the way to work the other day... Maybe a new route or two?

News from the Needles

2010-06-28T06:07:00.001-06:00

From the Needle's Eye parking lot yesterday.

Reg leads second pitch of Bloody Spire 5.7

A bunch plays follow the leader on Moonlight Rib 5.?

News from the Needles

2010-06-22T17:23:00.001-06:00

Some photo's from today's climbing/people watching.

My van from top of Hitching Post

Cluster congestion in the parking area a bit earlier

Just came through the tunnel

I got up there late today, all the climbers were nowhere to be found... maybe down at Tall Paul's place putting up new routes???

News from the Needles

2010-06-21T17:20:00.000-06:00

Here are some photo's of an up and coming climber, Brittany, she will be eight years old in October. Climbed and hiked a little behind the dam at Sylvan Lake today.

News from the Needles

2010-06-21T07:10:00.000-06:00

Met Cathy and Beth (from the Mpls/St. Paul area) at the Needles Eye parking area, they watched Biddick free solo Hitching post, enjoyed seeing rock climbing up close.

We were talking about the Custer area when the inevitable Sturgis motorcycle rally came up, turns out Cathy once had a Vespa but couldn't get the kickstand down to park it so didn't use it much. As I recall you had to hold the kickstand against the ground with your foot and lift the scooter onto the stand. Get another one Cathy and try again.

Cathy, Beth and Mike talked and talked and talked... had a great time including dinner at the old Chief restaurant in Custer. Seems like we always meet great people around the Needles Eye and Custer.

News from the Needles

2010-06-16T07:20:00.000-06:00

Great weather day yesterday. Many climbers showed up, many from other states to be here a few weeks. We spent the day behind the dam, lots of great climbing.

Biddick has the 2010 edition of the Moonlight Ridge climber's guide (many new routes) and is planning a gathering similar to the annual Pin Fest at Moonlight Ridge (probably July 24th, stay tuned for more info).

Looking forward to a great summer. Come one come all climb, have fun.

News from the Needles

2010-06-07T16:32:00.000-06:00

FYI

Put our first tourist of the season in harness and shoes and let her climb on Dog and pony show. She did very well and seemed to really enjoy it. Abbey from Long Beach, CA was traveling with her sister... Ooopps! that was her mother! and two others... boyfriend? and mother's husband? You know me I didn't get details, just had fun.

Get ready, the season begins in about one week. Alan and Theresa should be here Wednesday? Biddick soon after that?

News from the Needles

2010-06-05T17:09:00.000-06:00

Solar panels inside on the dash.

Mail boxes (among other things) on the back.

Just thought I should let everyone know that I finally found myself a new RV. I will be living in this baby full time from now on. If you know of any hot chicks that might like the full-time RV lifestyle, turn them on to the blog and maybe I can get hooked up.

Come on... what chick wouldn't want to live like this?

News from the Needles

2010-06-01T05:36:00.000-06:00

Finally, the big Memorial Day weekend is over, more tourists than ever, every hotel/motel room in custer was booked, parking lots & restaurants were full, couldn't find a parking spot at Sylvan Lake or the Needle's Eye, glad it's over.

Let the climbing begin.

Gate to Poverty Gulch is still locked, thought it was supposed to be open this summer?

News from the Needles

2010-05-26T15:50:00.000-06:00

For you guys who are many, many miles from the Black Hills... eat your heart out. I did my first climb of the season today, Naked in the Moonlight, 5.6... FANTASTIC!!!

Dark, overcast sky, cold wind, I didn't care I was going to climb. Geared up at the Needles Eye parking lot and found I had forgotten to bring water. Gave a tourist couple $2 for a bottle, solved that problem. At the base of the climb I got my harness and shoes on, tied the rope to the back of my harness and free soloed the route... FANTASTIC!!! what a feeling!

When I first climbed the route last summer I rated it 5.7... a couple of manly, climber studs down graded it to 5.6 right away. Today it climbed like 5.9. If you have never free soloed a route alone, with no one around to get help if you get hurt, try it some time and see if it doesn't climb a couple grades harder than normal... AND, it feels that much better when its finished.

When I threw the rope down to rappel, the wind blew it to my right, toward Kor-dination, it disappeared around some of those sharp aretes above and to the left of Kor-dination. I rapped down a ways and pulled the ropes so I could see the ends... surprise, surprise, one end only reached half way down the route, I ALWAYS LOOK! I up-climbed a couple moves, clipped into the third bolt and adjusted the rope, I was screaming with delight as I rapped down... what a feeling!!!

Including this photo of the route from last summer, didn't take a camera today. (the jagged crack in the middle of the photo) Did this about noon today, no moonlight so I kept my clothes on.

News from the Needles

2010-05-12T08:17:00.000-06:00

Spring time in the Black Hills.

Taken today 5/12/2010

News from the Needles

2010-04-28T12:25:00.000-06:00

So... I'm sorting through/organizing my climbing gear when I realize my wall hammer (new one pictured) is missing. Last time I used it was on Here Comes Trouble 5.10 on the Fist, probably last August or so. After looking every place I could think of I went up to the Park and hiked out to the route just in the unlikely chance I left it there and it might still be there, no such luck. I'm not likely to replace it at $95 plus shipping.

I did get this nice shot (poor lighting, wrong time of day) of the Moonlight Ridge skyline from my trail to the Fist, what's left of the trail. It looks like the Park Service told the loggers to cover all the trails with branches and debris, seem too coincidental that every trail would be covered by accident.

News from the Needles

2010-04-11T14:03:00.003-06:00

A little upgrade for the Cathedral Spires parking area and lots of missing trees at the base of Sandberg Peak.

Road was open, temps in the 60's, great day for climbing.

News from the Needles

2010-03-10T14:11:00.003-07:00

Hi everyone,

I hiked up to Moonlight Ridge on the 6th. Lots of snow but not cold. Thought you might like to see how much logging has been done.

First one from the trail looking toward Stumbling Block.

Second one looking at second group of rocks from the base of Nebulous.

Third one looking from the trail toward The Point.

I will be working on clearing the trails as weather permits. It will take a lot of work, just what I need to lose my winter fat.

News from the Needles

2010-02-27T13:39:00.000-07:00

This is the gate that closes the Needles Highway during winter... looks like Obama is in charge of it now.

Labor Day weekend

2009-09-06T13:02:00.001-06:00

Looks like one of the busiest I've ever seen. Gobs of tourons and lots of climbers. Great weather, (a little warm for me) and supposed to be warmer tomorrow.

By the way, a word to the wise, the bus company is pissed and looking to prosecute. The Park service will be helping to catch people doing the "bus traverse". Those who ignore this warning or don't get the warning are looking at a huge fine... minimum! Please stay away from the busses... help keep the peace.

News from the Needles

2009-08-06T13:11:00.004-06:00

Remembering Paul Duval

Paul died in a rappelling accident a year ago last month - June 24, 2008

Still missing him, he should still be with us.

Paul rapping off Wicked Picket and Paul with his traveling van.

News from the Needles

2009-08-05T11:08:00.004-06:00

This time of year the main street of Custer is taken over by Bikers in the area for the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. Monday morning I came across these two "bad" looking bikers.

Click on the photo and it will enlarge.

News from the Needles

2009-08-05T08:43:00.009-06:00

A short history of Sportf--king,5.10a, aka Loss of Sensation, aka Trojan Condom-nation, aka Trojan Condemnation.

I’m posting this to correct one of the many, many inaccuracies in the Orenczak & Lynn climbing guide, The Needles: A Climbers Guide to the Black Hills Needles. Specifically, Brent Kurtzman and Howard Doyle had nothing to do with the route. Dennis Horning and Paul Duval bolted it, Hollis Marriott and I got the first ascent. To my mind, there is no excuse for presenting gossip as fact in a guidebook.

Back in the “old days” when I was still traveling in the Corvette (mid eighties to mid nineties), I was cruising the Needles Highway through the Park about six am one morning (I was camping at Poverty Gulch and could never sleep well while camping) anyway, as I came by Reunion Rock I was surprised to find three climbers so early in the morning. Dennis and Paul were on the rock to the right of Trojan Determination, one drilling while on rappell while the other was belying from above. Hollis was on the ground at the base of the route.

When the two on the rock finished the last bolt they hurried down and ran off to drill another route in the Ten Pins area. I was left standing with Hollis who had been quizzing me about why I was there, was I a spy trying to get them in trouble? etc. (drilling on rappell is against the “rules” established by a coalition of climbers intent on controlling the climbing “ethics” of the Needles). She insisted that I remain there so I couldn’t be off some where turning them in to the authorities. I guess I was convincing about being no threat because she decided to grab the first clean ascent and would I belay? I said sure and that is how I belayed and seconded the first ascent of Sportf--king.

Back on the ground as we began to clean up gear, coil rope etc. Hollis was musing about maybe naming the route Trojan Condom-nation (as an insult to Trojan Determination, and the climber who put it up). Reunion Rock is famous/infamous for Trojan Determination, the route has received a lot of criticism for the long, dangerous runout to the first bolt and the first ascentionist’s insistance that no more bolts be added to make it safer. But, since the new route was put up in forbidden style no one would take credit for it nor describe it in writing anywhere so the name didn’t stick.

I don’t know how the name Sportf--king came about or who named it but I assume it was meant as an insult to the route and whoever put it up because everyone suspected it was done in bad style and, at that time sport climbing was frowned upon in general and especially frowned upon in the Needle’s where local climbers wanted to be known for their “bold” ground up style.

The route is a fine example of a modern, safe, bolted sport route in the 5.9/5.10 range and has become very popular over the years.

In the photo above, Trojan Determination begins in the center of the face, wanders right then left to a modern chain anchor. Sportf--king goes up the right side, Impuissance (another insult to Trojan D.) is left of Trojan D., they all share the same anchor.

News from the Needles

2009-08-01T08:13:00.003-06:00

Photo of Huggin' Linda, 5.9. (The sharp arete between light and shadow)

Huggin' Linda is located at the Poverty Peaks climbing area. Road access has been gated off by the Forest Service so its a bit of a hike in but there are enough routes to keep you busy for quite a while. Take water and a lunch and spend the day.

News from the Needles

2009-07-27T08:06:00.003-06:00

Looks like the annual Sticky Ball game/picnic at the Karpel cabin in Sunday Gulch draws more climber's than the BHCC has members. Reports are they had over forty participants this year. Looks like everyone got crazy and had fun.

News from the Needles

2009-07-25T08:33:00.003-06:00

Balloon rally here in Custer this morning - same thing tomorrow 5:30am.

News from the Needles

2009-07-24T12:04:00.002-06:00

A couple days ago John Biddick and Steve Wilger had a 301 point day. Climbing a 5.7 gets you seven points, climbing a 5.10 gets you ten points etc. They probably did this at Moonlight Ridge (lots of routes close together).

In the game, every pitch must be led clean (probably swapped leads) and both climbers must top out on each pitch. I think they said they did 38 pitches total.

Anyone care to show them up???

News from the Needles

2009-07-11T03:15:00.006-06:00

To the right, third photo down is a rock called The Fist as seen from the railing at the Needle's Eye parking lot. Herb and Jan conn reached the west summit of The Fist (5.4) in 1951. This route is protected by one fixed piton just below the summit.

The next activity at The Fist as described in Paul Piana’s Touch the Sky guidebook, occurred in 1978 with Route 3, 5.8+ or 5.9, Paul Meuhl, Jim Mullen and Mike Gotzsche, ,and then in 1979 with Little Finger, 5.6 or 5.7, Paul Meuhl, Bob Archbold and Karen Krauss, and Sultan of Swing, 5.11, a wildly over hanging top rope problem. Route 3 and Little Finger include the typical Needle’s runouts so characteristic of the time.

The Fist remained relatively untouched for the next thirty years, seeing very few ascents of the existing routes (runouts) and no new routes. Then in 2006, while looking for the start of Little Finger Mike McQuarrie (climbing with Paul Duval, Bill Ruggieri and John Biddick) did an onsite, trad first ascent of an arete with a crack behind that starts about forty feet up the left side of the east face and ends at the little finger horn. The middle photo shows the dark shadow behind the arete as you approach from the valley below. The route, called Middle Finger, AKA The Bird, goes at 5.7 or 5.8, and eats up small to medium nuts and cams. Finish up the last thirty feet of Little Finger (one bolt) and rap off the north side over Sultan of Swing. The following summer Mike added two bolts to protect the forty foot exposure that leads to the arete.

This summer Mike bolted the face to the right of The Bird, Here comes Trouble, 5.10. The long, steep route begins from a ledge (4th class up 10 or 15 feet) and follows ten bolts to the little finger horn. The first photo shows the ledge at the start of the route and a sixty meter rope that is 5 or six feet short of reaching the ledge (best to rap over Sultan of Swing). Finish up the last thirty feet of Little Finger . Staying slightly right of the bolts will take you through some 5.10 b/c but you can always move left of the bolts (about 5.8 or 5.9).

The easiest way to get to the Fist is from the Park Point area. Park on the side of the road and find the faint trail leading uphill from the south side of the road. Stay on the trail a short distance to the Fist.

News from the Needles

2009-07-02T14:38:00.007-06:00

New route at Moonlight Ridge, Naked in the Moonlight, 5/6 - 5/7, McQuarrie & Biddick.

First ascent done all trad, three bolts were added to make this route suitable for a 5/6 - 5/7 leader. You get to place some small nuts or cams in the crack, then clip a modern bolt just before the crux. The last trad placement, between the second and third bolts, will let you place a bomber tiny nut in a horizontal crack.

At the second group of rocks as you stand looking at Stairway to Heaven and Kor-Dination, move around left to find this route.

Excellent route, and yes, it has been done naked in the moonlight.

News from the Needles

2009-06-21T06:10:00.002-06:00

Getting in a little climbing at Moonlight Ridge (Nebulous, 5.10) between bursts of rain.

News from the Needles

2009-05-21T13:35:00.001-06:00

Looks like some Coalition members have been up here performing some witchcraft ritual to curse the Moonlight Ridge area. This stone circle was found just across from Nebulous, 5.10 on the Ridge. (maybe one of them couldn't get up it clean)

News from the Needles

2009-05-21T13:30:00.001-06:00

Here is a shot of Hitching Post from an unusual angle. Doesn't look like it could be 5.0/5.2 does it?

News from the Needles

2009-04-12T06:43:00.000-06:00

There is a ridge that is seen to the east of Sylvan Lake, just above the Little Devil's Tower parking lot, that I've been calling "East Ridge", it is home to many new routes and has potential for many more. Shown here are the three main rock masses of East Ridge.

2009-04-10T10:23:00.000-06:00

Reprinted from The Fox Forum - Fox News.com

PATRICK DORINSON: Cowboy Wisdom — 5 Rules Obama Needs Right Now

By Patrick Dorinson
Political Commentator

Welcome home, Mr. President. You sure had a long trip. I hope your cold is much better and you get a chance to rest over the Easter Weekend.
There are folks that are a lot smarter than I am, or at least the media thinks they are, who are giving your trip a full political and policy proctologic examination.

They are all over television and talk radio either praising or damning the things you did or didn’t do while you were away. Frankly, it feels like watching ESPN after the Super Bowl as experts analyze each move as if it was a life or death situation.

I’m not going to grade you or criticize your trip. I just want to give you some Old West cowboy advice as you move forward. Here are five things I would suggest:

1. Never Drop Your Gun to Hug a Grizzly Bear.

I think it’s great you want to talk to our enemies. If they want to parley, why not? Just make sure they know your holster is full of more than just leather and that if pushed too far you will draw.

You don’t need to threaten or act tough. Real cowboys never do that. Their actions do their talking.

2. Never Be too Quick to Criticize Yourself. It’s Not Fair to All Your Friends and Relatives who are Dyin’ to Do It for You.

In this case the friends and relatives are our allies who for the last eight years have done nothing but criticize. Funny thing is while they are criticizing they don’t seem to mind us doing all the global dirty work of going after their enemies as well as ours.

And there sure seemed to me to be a whole lot of apologizing on this trip for one thing or another. I think you will find that most Americans don’t think we have a lot to apologize for — especially to the Europeans. I think in June when you visit Normandy for the 65th Anniversary of the D-Day landings and see the rows upon rows of marble crosses and Stars of David it will become more apparent to you.

Do we have flaws? You bet. Mistakes? You bet. But I think on balance we have been a force for good however imperfect.

3. Too Much Debt Doubles the Weight of Your Horse and Puts Another In Control of the Reins.

Now that you are back home and get to sleep in your own bed, you might want to think about all the money you want to spend on your agenda and going into debt bailing out everyone who shows up at the teller’s window of the U.S. Treasury. I know you promised the voters that you were going to do all this stuff and that you could multi-task but you are the adult and you need to tell the rest of us that we just can’t do all this right now and pare back your agenda.

Some will say we can’t wait that all this must be done right now. Well, why not make a down payment on your agenda and make payments we can afford rather than putting nothing down and making your monthly payments on a credit card. We know how that ends.

If you don’t, those holding our debt (like the Chinese) will have control of the reins.

4. Don’t Go In if You Don’t Know the Way Out.

I read a lot of military history and for my money Afghanistan is the graveyard of empires. I know we all want to get Usama bin Laden and string him up, but what makes us think we will fare any better in the long run than the British did in the 19th Century or the Russians in the 20th Century? Besides, when the going gets tough — as it most surely will — I’ll bet you dollars to doughnuts that the Europeans will skedaddle with their tails between their legs faster than you can say NATO.

Going in is the easy part. Getting out is a whole other breed of cat.

5. If You’re Riding Ahead of the Herd, Take a Look Back Every Now and Then to Make Sure It’s Still There.

And that doesn’t mean endless polling. I’ve been hearing that your political folks are constantly polling everything you do and say. Don’t listen to them and don’t read the polls. If you are as smart as everyone says you are and you think you understand the American people, don’t take their pulse every five minutes.

Your job as trail boss of this outfit we call America is to lead the herd to the next watering hole, into the tall grass and keep it safe. You can’t do that if you worry about the significance of every tumbleweed that rolls by.

If you do your job right the herd will be there. If not they will scatter and it will be up to the next trail boss to round them up and start all over.

News from the Needles

2009-03-08T12:42:00.001-06:00

Life and a can of beer

When things in your life seem almost too much to handle, when 24 hours in a day are not enough, remember the mayonnaise jar... and the beer.

A professor stood before his philosophy class with some items in front of him. when the class began, wordlessly, he picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full. They agreed it was.

So the professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar. He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full. They agreed it was. The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full. Tha students responded with a unanimous “yes”.

The professor then produced two cans of beer from under the table and poured the entire contents into the jar, effectively filling the empty space between the sand. The students laughed. Now, said the professor as the laughter subsided, I want you to recognize that the jar represents your life. The golf balls are the important things, your family, your children, your health, your friends, your favorite passions -- things that if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full.

The pebbles are the other things that matter, like your job, your house, your car. The sand is everything else -- the small stuff. If you put the sand into the jar first, he continued, there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls. The same goes for life. If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff, you will never have room for the things that are important.

Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness. Play with your children. Take time to get medical checkups. Take your partner out to dinner. Play another eighteen. There will always be time to clean the house, and fix the disposal. Take care of the golf balls first, the things that really matter. Set your priorities. The rest is just sand. One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the beer represented. The professor smiled. “I’m glad you asked”’ he said. It just goes to show you that no matter how full your life may seem, there’s always room for a couple of beers.

News from the Needles

2009-02-06T05:52:00.004-07:00

The sex cave... located above the Little Devil's Tower parking lot in the area called Eastridge. The peaks of Eastridge are visible to the east of Sylvan Lake.

This is an area with plenty of potential for new routes.

News from the Needles

2009-01-28T12:31:00.002-07:00

Hi everyone,

Its been a long time since posting anything here... winter and all you know.

Its been long enough that I'm posting a photo of the rappel where Paul fell to his death. The photo was taken a few days after the fall.

The point where the ropes disappear over the edge is nineteen feet from the rappel rings, the black marks on the rope were twenty feet from the end of the rope so, if he looked, it would have appeared that everything was OK. The measurement from the rappel rings to the ground was fifty seven feet leaving a thirty seven foot fall after the end of the rope pulled through the device.

Hope this makes everyone check and double check for safety in the future.

McQ

News from the Needles

2008-11-30T15:07:00.002-07:00

Here is a photo of the Needle's Eye parking lot from top of the Fist taken last August I believe.

News from the Needles

2008-11-25T15:10:00.002-07:00

For those of you interested in Karen's effort to legally establish her common law marriage to Paul (South Dakota does not officially recognize common law marriage). Karen recently appeared in court here in Custer with Paul's relatives from the east coast. The judge found in favor of Karen and she is now in charge of (and is the main beneficiary of) Paul's estate. Congratulations Karen.

Last I heard she should be off on the winter trip to their place in Mexico and we won't see her again until March or so. email her at sampong@yahoo.com and be prepared to wait for a reply until she gets to an internet access in her travels.

Best wishes Karen.

News from the Needles

2008-07-31T13:29:00.002-06:00

Another shot of Paul with friends.

2008-07-30T09:19:00.000-06:00

Many of us still missing Paul around here.

Paul, Karen and Peter Lev.

News from the Needles

2008-07-10T16:26:00.002-06:00

This is Josh after leading Super Pin. He had to belay several guys up...you don't often get a chance to climb Super Pin.

News from the Needles

2008-07-08T17:07:00.002-06:00

Here is a nice shot of Chantilly Lace, 5.6 (Moonlight Ridge) scammed from the Mountain Project site. Chantilly Lace was actually free soloed and then retro-bolted in order to stay within the Needles 'ethic' according to the BH climbing coalition. If you do the first ascent you 'own' it and can retro-bolt or whatever.

News from the Needles

2008-07-06T14:38:00.003-06:00

Paul on Bell Tower last summer.

News from the Needles

2008-07-06T13:50:00.003-06:00

I was bolting a new route between Little Finger and Middle Finger on the Fist when Paul died. I left the rope fixed for about a week and when I went up there after Paul's Memorial Service I found that someone had cut about 50 or 60 feet off the end that was coiled on the ground. Guess the scumbag didn't have the stones to climb up and just steal the whole rope. Oh well, I will finish the route as soon as I can and dedicate it to Paul, he was interested in developing the area and would be helping with this route if he was still with us.

news from the Needles

2008-07-05T15:15:00.004-06:00

Here are some postcards from Paul sent to us from Nancy and Carey Robillard, old friends of Paul. Sounds like Nancy and Carey might have climbed at Beecher Rocks with Paul.

Are these some of Paul's home made cards???

News from the Needles

2008-06-30T09:11:00.001-06:00

June 21 was the first day without rain in almost 3 weeks. Luckily it was also the climbers 3rd annual "Sticky Ball" game at our cabin in Sunday Gulch. 13 people played this year ranging in age from 18 months to 71 years old. That 71 year old was Paul Duval. This was the first year he elected to participate in the game. I was on his team. Paul played in the infield, but it was his at bat performance we will remember. His first at bat Paul swung with ferocity. He spun 360 degrees, tumbled to the ground, rolled downhill a few times, jumped to his feet and was back at home plate waiting for the next pitch. We were all astonished and doubled over with laughter. Paul hit the ball on the next pitch down the 3rd base line. So as not to be thrown out, he SLID up hill into 1st base. Whether the play was made, no one will say. The mere fact that Paul slid into first base made him safe in everyone's opinion.

After roughly 2 hours of play we were the victors. We cooked dinner over the fire, shared food, wine and beer, talked of travel, family, climbing, and memories from our years of friendship. It was a chilly night, everyone sat with their coats on, or shared blankets as the dogs warmed our toes. We laughed a lot. No one wanted to leave because we were having so much fun. But then again, this group of people always has fun, always enjoys their annual time spent together in the Needles.

Just a few days later several of this same group of people was climbing at Moonlight Ridge, an area Paul helped develop. Paul suffered a fatal accident. Those on the scene were at his side within 45 seconds to administer CPR. Sara took off her bandana to wipe his face. Others in the group ran to guide the Search and Rescue and EMT personnel.

Hours later we were again at my cabin: phone calls, tears, questions, answers, friendship, hugs, more phone calls, and finally late in the evening some food. We could not believe this was real. The word surreal was said over and over as we tried to grasp the enormity of this man's life and death and what he meant to us.

Sara built a fire. We all gathered around the fire pit. A soft rain began to fall as we each began to speak. We shared stories, and memories of Paul: memories of trips to his and Karen's home in Mexico, his first ascents, his artistic postcards and cartoons, his blacksmithing skills and instruction, stories personal to each person who spoke. Some knew Paul for decades, some for only one week. He was referred to as a father figure and a patriarch of the Needles climbing community. He was praised for his honesty, kindness and generosity of spirit. The bandana used to wipe his brow was wrapped around a bundle of sage and lowered into the fire. We quietly stood and watched as the smoke traveled upwards. After a time the rain intensified and everyone reluctantly went home. It was hard for everyone to leave. Everyone was exhausted. I think it was close to midnight.

I sat on the screened porch and watched the fire with my family. The rain was heavy now but the fire did not go out. It would flare up several times, shine brightly, and then return to low burning flames. At 1:30 I was exhausted and numb. I could not leave a fire burning in the forest. It still burned so brightly despite several hours of rain. We were amazed but not surprised. It was Paul's fire, burning bright, able to endure hardship, harsh or unfavorable conditions. It was comforting to know that Paul's spirit was released in the Black Hills. It was comforting to watch this fire which burned so bright and fought so hard to be itself. We stirred the flames then poured a bucket of water on them. The smoldering embers relinquished and the thick smoke rose up as we said our final farewell. These are my memories. We will miss you Paul.

Theresa Karpel

news from the Needles

2008-06-29T08:42:00.002-06:00

Some have been commenting on the many blogs about how great to be climbing at age 71, and yes it is, but to put that in perspective imagine this...Paul emailed me just after his 70th birthday to let me know that he led seven 5.10's at Potrero to commemorate his 70th. Wow!!

He had just led an onsite trad 5.8 called Binary Star before the accident. Niether he nor the climber who followed were familiar with the rope that had black ink marks twenty feet from each end as well as a center mark. Somehow Paul mistook one of the end marks for the center, a tragic mistake.

Hopefully, knowing how Paul died will save other lives.

news from the Needles

2008-06-28T18:09:00.000-06:00

There will be a memorial service for Paul Duval on Monday evening, June 30, at 7pm at the McColley Funeral Home, 234 North 6th Street, Custer, SD, Phone: 605-673,4422. All friends and climbers are invited to attend and share their memories.

news from the Needles

2008-06-28T08:42:00.000-06:00

Subject:
my brother Paul Duval, in memory
From:
Ron_Duval@toyota.com (Add as Preferred Sender)
Date: Wed, Jun 25, 2008 7:57 pm
To: info@blackhillsclimbingclub.com

DUVAL- Paul A. 71 Formerly of Watertown, MA. Died Tuesday June 24, 2008 due to a rock climbing accident in Custer, South Dakota. He lived with his life partner Karen Hargrave in Custer.
He was born in Boston, raised in Allston and graduated from Boston Technical H.S. in 1954. He holds degrees from Wentworth Institute, Northeastern University and a master’s degree from Boston University. As a young man he was an avid motorcycle racer and enthusiast.
As a member of the U.S. Army Signal Corp, he spent his military service in Europe and was honorably discharged in 1962. He returned to Boston in 1964 with his wife Marie-Francoise and baby daughter Nathalie, after working for two years in Paris as an engineer.
His professional career was spent as a dedicated high school teacher in the Boston Public School System. He taught at Boston Technical H.S., Charlestown H.S. and Madison Park H.S. He spent many of his summers as a camp counselor in Maine.
He was a long-time member of the Appalachian Mountain Club and very active as a rock climbing instructor. His climbing experience included excursions to Europe, Africa, Mexico and all over North America.
He is survived by his two daughters, Nathalie Couetil, West Lafayette, Indiana, Orielle Georgiades, Carmel, Indiana, Brother Kenneth, Yreka, California, Brother Ronald, Long Valley, NJ. and four grand children.
THANKS,
RON DUVAL

O.973.428.7611 C.201.787.0482, F.310.381.7817

Make it a Good Day!

News from the Needles

2008-06-25T06:57:00.002-06:00

It is with deep regret that we post this announcement.

Paul Duval, a Needles pioneer, icon and friend to us all, died yesterday in a climbing accident at the Moonlight Ridge area. The accident involved mistaking the mark near the end of a rope for the mark at the center of the rope and resulted in rappelling off the short end.

Our condolences to his family and loved ones.

McQ

New Route

2008-05-16T17:33:00.004-06:00

New route on The Fist, Middle Finger, 5.8, AKA The Bird, just left of an old 1960's route called Little Finger featured in Paul Piana's Touch the Sky guide book.

All trad first ascent last Labor Day. Thirty or forty foot runout to the first placement, finishes on the upper part of Little Finger. The guys suggest we add a bolt or two to protect the runout, will probably do that next week. This is a nice long trad 5.8 with lots of placement opportunities.

More to come.

McQ

Needles info blog

2008-05-15T18:02:00.001-06:00

Hi everyone,

This is an invitation to re-establish the "News from the Needles" feature on the old Black Hills Climbing Club blog. Lots of people kept in touch that way, lets get it going again.

There has been lots of logging/thinning going on in the Custer State Park. Standing at the railing at the Needles Eye parking lot the other day there were busy chain saws between me and the formation called "The Fist". I think you will all like the thinning, it opens up the forest allowing one to see much more detail much further away. "Bushwacking" through the forest to new climbing sites will be much easier now, lots of slash piles instead of dense vegetation.

I hope everyone has been saving for gas money to come out here so we can have a big season this year.

Looking forward to seeing you all,

McQ